Meeting "Moses"
One of my favorite benefits of travel is the opportunity to meet fascinating people from other cultures. Chuck and I lucked out with that opportunity last month when we met such a person named John Beggs in the tiny hamlet of Prince Albert, S. Africa. Having just arrived in town, we visited the town's tiny history museum to learn more about our latest stop. After seeing two rooms of old furniture and photos, we bumped into a gray bearded gentleman hanging displays of African Bushmen. He introduced himself with a clipped British accent as a paleontologist. His display shared decades of his work with African Bushmen and their cave paintings. When we expressed an interest in the paintings, he invited us to accompany him that day to the nearby Bushmen caves. For some reason, we dropped all our plans to relax, donned our hiking bookts, and set off for the hills with John. I'm glad we did.
We drove out to a remote clearing at the foot of sandstone hills, parking by a small shed decorated with bones and feathers. At the door, John greeted us looking like an eccentric Moses, wearing jeans, high topped sneakers and a small purple Holly Hobbit backpack.
For the next half hour, we toured his shed, viewing his scientifically labeled collections of primate skulls, tortoise shells, African bows, arrows, and arrowheads next to shelves of tomes on anothropology, biology and research papers. I thought, "We're not in Kansas anymore, Toto!"
Off we hiked into the hot sandstone hills, listening as John began a lecture on the history and geology of the Karoo area. Then we climbed up the steep rocks to a small cave, although I was not sure I could do make it. Inside were three drawings of red stick figures on the wall. One appeared to be giving birth next to an animal. John discussed the lives of the peaceful, four foot Bush people, original inhabitants of the area. When the Dutch arrived, they systematically hung large groups of these Bushmen, calling them animals. At the next cave was a red bird-like figure which apparently represented the transformation from the invisible to visible world, perhaps painted during a "trance dance." Fascinating!
John concluded our visit with a discussion of the unlikely future survival of these people. Now only a few hundred remain with but 2% still living off the land. Such a tragic ending!
As I left, I felt so honored to gain a personal glimpse into the life and artwork of this unique people. I also wondered how many other people in their last years would donate a entire day to lead two random American tourists up a mountain to teach them about African Bushmen and their homes. Obviously, this is not a job but a passion for John. I hope that someday I too will have such a passion to share with others. And I hope it will be shared freely with a full heart, even if I too look "a little funky."
We drove out to a remote clearing at the foot of sandstone hills, parking by a small shed decorated with bones and feathers. At the door, John greeted us looking like an eccentric Moses, wearing jeans, high topped sneakers and a small purple Holly Hobbit backpack.
For the next half hour, we toured his shed, viewing his scientifically labeled collections of primate skulls, tortoise shells, African bows, arrows, and arrowheads next to shelves of tomes on anothropology, biology and research papers. I thought, "We're not in Kansas anymore, Toto!"
Off we hiked into the hot sandstone hills, listening as John began a lecture on the history and geology of the Karoo area. Then we climbed up the steep rocks to a small cave, although I was not sure I could do make it. Inside were three drawings of red stick figures on the wall. One appeared to be giving birth next to an animal. John discussed the lives of the peaceful, four foot Bush people, original inhabitants of the area. When the Dutch arrived, they systematically hung large groups of these Bushmen, calling them animals. At the next cave was a red bird-like figure which apparently represented the transformation from the invisible to visible world, perhaps painted during a "trance dance." Fascinating!
John concluded our visit with a discussion of the unlikely future survival of these people. Now only a few hundred remain with but 2% still living off the land. Such a tragic ending!
As I left, I felt so honored to gain a personal glimpse into the life and artwork of this unique people. I also wondered how many other people in their last years would donate a entire day to lead two random American tourists up a mountain to teach them about African Bushmen and their homes. Obviously, this is not a job but a passion for John. I hope that someday I too will have such a passion to share with others. And I hope it will be shared freely with a full heart, even if I too look "a little funky."
posted by Chuck and Gay Mitchell | 11:12 AM
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