Copacabana...Isle de Sol....Escape from LaPaz

We left Lapaz and proceeded to magical Lake Titicaca. This was Chuck´s second adventure to the lake and Gay just needed to see it. The drive through El Alto, a gigantic slum outside of LaPaz was shocking. LaPaz is in a deep bowl and El Alto is at the top of the bowl. Hundreds of thousands of people live in this hell hole. It seems to spread on forever. There is no obvious signs of malnutrition, but the housing stock, ditch like streets and open sewers provided a strange setting. You see the Andes rise above the plane behind them and provide an eloquent frame for this depressing scene.

The three plus hour bus trip took us through the Alto Plano, high plateau, region. Then to 14,000 foot plus ridges above Lake Titicaca. Random, native people are working their fields with wooden plows, hand hoes, and cattle. Llamas and sheep are hearded. It often seems like you are walking into a 17th century picture.

Copacabana is a beautiful seaside town. We stayed at La Cupla, owned and run by a wonderful German guy, Martin. He created each room as a piece of art. Gay and I stayed in a masterpiece. Our suite had 25 foot high windows with leaden frames. The woodwork is all hand done. The view of the lake looking towards Peru is fantastic. The sun is blazing hot and the colors of the water, the city and the surrounding mountains is intense. The food in the resteraunt is European and great.

We met some very interesting English folks. They came from well bred families and although 30 years younger were good dinner companions. One fellow, looked like a young Tony Blair and did a perfect imitation of the prime minister engaging MPs in the question and answer session of Parliment.

A highlight of this sector of our trip was visiting Isle de Sol. The slow boat ride for two hours passed the terraced mainland. We then landed on the island and hiked the spine of the island for about four hours. What an enjoyable, hot, walk. We then stayed at a remarkable little hostal, from which a large bay of the island could be seen on one side, and the Andes r

Igazu Falls....WOW

Blog neglect due to lots of moves....We are in Igazu taking a day off after two days of intense viewing of the falls. First, my friend Vicki was right the falls, all 300 plus of them, are truly remarkable. Alas, we were unable to get into Brazil without paying $100 USD each, because of our enlightened government´s visa restrictions on Brazilians and Brazils understandable retaliation. Oh well, the falls were stunning from the Argentinian side.

The affect of seeing them for the first time is one of´... ahhhh. The only comperable feeling was when I saw the Grand Canyon for the first time. The power of the river pouring over the falls is only one part of the picture. The jungle is on hyper grow. We saw at least 12 species of butterflies, weird rodents, tucans and other birds. This is an experential experience. It is mist, sweat, sun, rain, huge falls, other tourists (only a few Gringos). The two days spent hiking around just absorbing the vibe were fantastic.

We are staying in Puerto Igazu. We journeyed here on a delux bus. Why don´t we have semi-camas in the United States. The bus is air conditioned, there are movies, a steward, good food, free drinks, and seats that make into beds. We left Buenos Aires at 7pm and arrived in Igazu, rested the next day at around 10:30 am. This beats 16 hours of driving and the cost of $70 per person seems fair.

This is no country for vegetarians. This is our first stay at a resort hotel, much like Inn at the 7th Mountain. There are great buffets featuring (you guessed it) beef. Carpacio, sausage, ribs, steaks (from various regions of the cattle), chicken, salami, all are on the menue. The wine (mainly Malbec and Cabs) from Mendoza is inexpensive and pleantiful. The price is right and if we were not walking four or five hours per day, I would be muy gordo.

The presidents of Argentina and Brazil were at our hotel last evening. We ate on the patio and did not even guess the stuffy folks dining inside were ministers and heads of state. They looked so polished and bored. They reminding me of all those poor insurance folks I used to take money from. Decent people living out somewhat boring lives. Meanwhile on the deck a local band played fusion rock-folk music. It was a good evening.

We are off to Bariloche, in the mountains next week. Tomorrow, we return to Buenos Aires and a night at the opera. See you soon!